Coming to the ancient temple complex of Borobudur, in the central Javanese plains 40km from Yogyakarta, Java’s second city, is like going back in time. Within half an hour of leaving Yogya’s bustling traffic, rural life opened up around us, showing little sign of change since the days of the Sailendra kings.When we first glimpsed the full scale of the site we couldn’t believe our eyes. The colossal building evokes a feeling of timeless harmony: the site is imposing, breathtaking, beautiful and mysterious.
The best time to visit the temple is in the early morning, as there’s a vibrant local morning market near the complex which is a good photo op and has some nice local handicrafts, plus the open walkways of the temple offer little relief from the sun, and the light is best at this time for photography, a favourite pastime of mine.
One thing you should be wary of is the hawkers at the entrance – try to ignore them if possible, as even starting a conversation is license for them to follow you around all day! Try not to let them disturb your thoughts, as it’s best to enter the temple complex with a clear mind, as there’s loads to see and think about.
It was easy to imagine what it must have been like at its height, with thousands of devotees tracing their hands over the same volcanic stone we touched ourselves, straining to understand the complex philosophy encoded into the walls, just as we did.